[…] Of these three Chianti Classicos, I found the Montesecondo to be the lightest-bodied, easiest-going and most immediately expressive. Partly this was because the blend included just 80 percent sangiovese, along with 17 percent canaiolo, which contributes lightness, and 3 percent colorino, which, not surprisingly, adds color. For me, this is a classic Chianti, juicy, joyous and utterly refreshing, with pure bitter cherry flavors and a touch of dusty tannins, great with homemade pizza. It may also have been lighter because the grapes were from the cooler San Casciano commune in the northwest of the zone.
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(A version of this article appears in print on October 8, 2014, on page D4 of the New York edition with the headline: Chianti Classico’s Emotional Tug.)