[…] Of these three Chianti Classicos, I found the Montesecondo to be the lightest-bodied, easiest-going and most immediately expressive. Partly this was because the blend included just 80 percent sangiovese, along with 17 percent canaiolo, which contributes lightness, and 3 percent colorino, which, not surprisingly, adds color. For me, this is a classic Chianti, juicy, joyous and utterly refreshing, with pure bitter cherry flavors and a touch of dusty tannins, great with homemade pizza. It may also have been lighter because the grapes were from the cooler San Casciano commune in the northwest of the zone.
(A version of this article appears in print on October 8, 2014, on page D4 of the New York edition with the headline: Chianti Classico’s Emotional Tug.)